Tools You Need For Your Motorcycle ? Our Favorite Must-Have Specialized Tools ?

Tools You Need For Your Motorcycle ? Our Favorite Must-Have Specialized Tools ?

Even if you are not really into working on
your bike, every rider should know how to do a few fundamental tasks. Stick around we are going to show you a few
tools we’ve found over the years that make these basic tasks easier. Hi, I’m Dave and welcome fellow Canyon Chasers! Every rider should know how to check tire
pressure, lube and adjust a chain, remove a wheel and a few other basic skills. Aside from the basic assortment of ratchets, wrenches, extensions and screwdrivers here’s a list of our favorite garage tools that make basic, day-to-day motorcycle maintenance easier. And finally, most of the tools we’ll be
telling you about are less than thirty bucks. Oh look a hammer. Wow. Okay, yeah. Its a hammer, but it’s a special hammer. – I really wish I had my hammer. – Hammer? – It was quite unique. It was made from this special metal from the heart of a dying star. Well, not that special. It’s called a Loaded or Dead-Blow hammer,
if you listen, you’ll hear there’s sand inside the head of the hammer, and it’s made of
soft, non-marring, material. So when you tap on something with one of these,
the material inside the head prevents the head from bouncing, which prevents damage to soft
surfaces and improves the striking force, so you don’t have to hit things very hard. This, one-pound, dead-blow hammer is one of
the most used tools in the garage. It allows you to tap on things without damaging
the thing you are tapping on. It’s perfect for motivating sticky axles, or anything that needs a little nudge to get moving. They come in a wide range of sizes, but we’ve
found the small one is the one that gets used the most because you shouldn’t hit anything
on your bike too hard. The one we link to in the description is like,
ten dollars. Motorcycles not only use normal hex head bolts,
but you’re likely to see lots of Allens, or even Torx. These stupid things are miserable. But these allen sockets get used all the time,
like on every single job. Don’t buy a cheap set. One thing you need to know when it comes to
allens, the cheap ones will ruin or strip your bolts, where the quality ones are far
less likely to hurt them. This Craftsman set, which is well over twenty
years old, will run you about fifteen dollars. You will want normal sockets and deep sockets. If you are in the market be sure to buy the
six point ones, not the twelve point ones. Six point sockets will be far less likely
to damage bolts. I basically refuse to use twelve point sockets
because they suck. Bonus tip: chrome sockets are not for impact
drivers! If you need to run an impact gun, get the
purpose built sockets for that job. Sometimes it’s a lot faster and easier just
to grab a T-Handle. They are ideal for lighter tasks, and that’s
where these babies come in. A long arm for fast spins, and a short arm
when you need more torque. Just like with the sockets, don’t buy cheap,
otherwise you’ll just ruin your fasteners. This set from Klein is around thirty-five
bucks, so you don’t have to break the bank. You’ll be tempted to buy these with ball
ends. Ball ends are great for weird angles, but
they are also a lot more likely to damage the bolt, so if you are only buying one set
that will be used all the time… I’ll just say that my ball-end Allens rarely
come out of the drawer, but these guys hang on the wall. So another tool that we just love is this
sliding T-handle extension thing. It basically turns any socket on an extension
into a T-handle or a breaker bar, and if you’ve never used T-handles, they’re
great. There are lots of sliding T-handles, but
the nicer ones, like this one, have a detent in the center so when you use it like a T-handle it remains a T instead of constantly becoming an L. We love this thing so much
we end up using it more than a ratchet. This guy is currently listed at thirteen dollars. But if the sliding thing is more complexity
than you want in your life, Motion Pro also makes this awesome fixed T-handle and it’s
a few bucks cheaper. Next we have the Motion Pro air chuck. So how is this different from one of these
or one of these. Well, it is… Well, it is. This air chuck is amazing! This top part rotates so you can get it into
tight places, like, you know, behind your brake rotors. Plus the way it seals around the valve is
better than any other air chuck we’ve ever used. I know, I know, it’s an air chuck, it’s
a thirty-dollar air chuck, but when I told all the other Canyon Chaser team members,
they didn’t believe me either. But now, you’ll find one of these guys in
every one of our toolboxes. It’s that good. But you’re like, but I don’t have an air
compressor. That’s another item that will just make
your life easier. You don’t need to have a big giant tank
thing like this, you can get a little pancake air compressor for as little as sixty to a
hundred dollars. Air up your tires before you head out for
a ride, change grips in a snap, it also opens the world of air tools like impact drivers. Trust me, you want an air compressor. And now that you have an air compressor, there’s
no excuse for you to neglect your tire pressure. You need a quality tire gauge. How your bike behaves and how long your tires
last is largely dependant upon your tire pressure. You need to stay on top of your tire pressure
at all times. These suck, these are a joke, pretty much any old crappy tire pressure gauge isn’t worth the effort. We love this one from Intercomp. We’ve tested it against gauges costing three
and four times as much and it’s pretty much spot-on. It’s analog, so no batteries to worry about,
but its filled with liquid, making the gauge more accurate as humidity and moisture
changes can make a gauge less reliable. It also helps dampen vibrations in case you
drop or bump your gauge, which you should never, ever do if you want it to remain accurate. You need to have blue thread lock (sometimes
called loctite) and anti-seize, on hand, all the time. Thread lock is amazing for preventing lost
bolts and comes in different colors. Red is forever, but the blue is best for almost
everything else. I love the stuff that works like chapstick. Just roll the tip of the bolt into the end
and no muss no fuss. Anti-seize keeps threads from getting stuck. And I use it all over the place, cables, spark
plugs, axle bolts… anything I want to come apart again. It comes in a few flavors, the most common
are copper or aluminum. Copper is for higher temperature applications,
aluminum, or silver, is what you’ll use the most. Anti-Seize is the messiest stuff in the world,
so to keep things clean, again, we love the Chapstick style like this. So how tight should you make a bolt? Well, you really should have a
torque wrench, but… Use a little bit of thread lock, gently seat
the bolt, then turn it about 1/8th of turn. If you aren’t very comfortable with that,
and you kinda shouldn’t be, then buy a decent torque wrench. You can find the torque specifications for
your bike online and in forums, but a service manual is the best resource. Most people make bolts way, way, waaaay too
tight. So the previous owner of your bike didn’t
have a torque wrench and used the force of god on every bolt they touched or maybe you
are working on an older bike… A lot of older Japanese bikes just have phillips
screws on a lot of fasteners, making them extremely hard to remove. If you ever have a problem with stuck screws
and bolts then it’s good to have an Impact Screwdriver on hand. So these little guys, when you hit them, they
have this spring tension ratchet thing that turns, but if the bolt is really stuck, it’ll
purposely slip so as not to strip the head. So the force of the impact keeps the head
in place, the vibration of the impact helps break the threads free, and then the rotational
forces encourage the bolt to turn. This tool doesn’t get used a whole lot,
but when it’s needed it’s amazing. And they are typically less than thirty-dollars. Cleaning and lubing your chain can be a dirty
chore. We have an entire video dedicated to the process,
but in that video we talk about this little guy with a goofy name. The Grease Ninja. By the way, this is the only thing we’re
talking about today that was given to us, but we’ve since purchased many more because
it’s kinda’ awesome. One of the problems with lubing your chain
is that it’s easy to get overspray all over your tire, your wheel, actually miss getting
the lube onto the o-rings, or over-lube your chain, which is actually a bad thing. But this little guy sits on top of the chain
and directs the chain lube directly over the o-rings, providing lubrication right where
you need it most, providing the best lubrication between the chain and sprockets and protecting
the o-rings from damaging UV rays and whatnot. They come in a few sizes depending on your
specific chain and will set you back a mere 15 dollars. “Enhancements” to the modern gas can has
made them a horrible thing for motorcycles. Vent-free spouts mean that all you really
end up doing is spilling gas all over your tank and soaking your hands in fuel. However, you can still get these “utility”
jugs from companies like V.P. Fuel The challenge with these has always been the
spout is difficult to manage when you are fueling your bike by yourself, but Stroker
Industries solved that with their “utility jug valve and hose.” These things are brilliant. Get the “utility jug” into position, and
depress the button to open the valve and allow the liquid to flow. We have put links to each of these in the
description below and all of them, and all of them, with the exception of the Grease Ninja, we purchased our own. In other words, nobody has payed us to say
anything in this video. If you have any tools that you use that have
made motorcycle maintenance better for you, please share them in the comments, and if
you’d like us to cover any basic motorcycle task in its own video, let us know, also, in
the comments. Thank you so much for watching and ride well.

75 thoughts on “Tools You Need For Your Motorcycle ? Our Favorite Must-Have Specialized Tools ?

  • Very good but you forgot a set of Japanese DIN screwdrivers.
    Finally after decades I bought a set (Vessel). Put it this way….it's a life changing moment.

  • Thank for the useful tips. I would also add a brake/clutch fluid bleeding kit. I have the basic one with a magnet and it did the job.

  • Damn I do need an air compressor..
    I found out that a simple plastic sheet will go a long way in protecting the work area/tyre when lubing the chain.
    As can be seen in this pic

    Great vid as always, thanks for the info ?

  • Awesome video man! I’ve turned a few other riders now on to the secret power of the grease ninja and a bottle of kerosene. One of my favorite tools now. Also a big fan of my motion pro air chuck and tire gauge. ?? I think you hit all the basics for the average rider.

  • Just a small correction. Japanese bikes have JIS screws, not Philips. Philips screwdrivers will cam out and ruin JIS screws so if you have a Japanese bike, its a good idea to have a basic set of JIS screwdrivers or bits.
    On a side note, you can use JIS in Philips screws without any issue, just not the other way around.

  • these are all great picks, i think i have just about every form of everything you mentioned. T handles are absolutely the best! I use them a ton, both in socket and hex. Just a observation, your hatred of L keys may stem from you using bad ones. this set from Wera is color coded, the handles are round so they're comfortable in the hand, they're machined to a very tight tolerance and they're fairly inexpensive. ball end on the long side for driving fasteners fast, but square on the short side when you're applying torque. they absolutely changed my opinion of L keys for the better, they're a joy to use.

  • I wouldn't recommend anti seize on spark plugs especially NGK as they are zinc plated so shouldn't seize up IIRC, also worth noting if you apply anti seize on a bolt and use a torque wrench to torque it up to spec you will be over tightening it (Unless the manual specifies the use of anti seize)

  • Another excellent video Dave! But where was Chase the dog? I saw his bed but didn’t see him. Thanks for all you guys do! You’re absolutely the best.

  • Thanks for the list! I'm a new bike owner (and rider) so I'll be needing everything. 😛
    Love the channel btw. I'm going back to watch all of your videos!

  • I will add this for oil changes. A video here

  • bondhus t-handles. Had lots of success with their ball ends. If you're taking off the same bolt everytime like a fairing to lift the gas tank use the non-ball end.

  • Any tips on how to get a garage to put tools in? In this ever-increasing rent, ever-increasing house prices country I live in?

  • Thumb Wheel Ratchet
    Park Three-Way Hex Wrenches
    Magnetic Parts Trays
    Pocket Telescoping Magnet Sticks
    Drilling Hammer for the Impact Driver
    Vessel JIS Screwdriver
    Spiral Brush for cleaning chains

  • I absolutely love T-handles. Ratcheting wrenches are so slow in comparison, I only use them for heavily torqued bolts. The Grease Ninja is a must buy as well.
    I would only add JIS screwdrivers for Japanese bikes, especially older ones, to use instead of Phillips screwdrivers:

  • You're not going to get great performance with a pancake compressor, then again you won't really have a ton of bolts to remove before the compressor can catch back up. Just don't plan on it working non-stop.

  • +1 on the grease ninja, thing is a godsend.

    If you don't have a centerstand, get a piece of wood that's thick enough to get the bike upright. Soloing a rear stand, a challenge? No more.

  • When I first got my bike, I stumbled upon your video on how to clean and lube the chain and I've been subscribed ever since. Thanks for all your informative, knowledgeable, and concise videos!

  • I need a tire gauge and I am tempted to buy the one you showed here but it is $50 is there a big different with those jaco elite pro, they are less than 1/2 of the price and have very good reviews what is your thought on this.

  • Great video Dave, Thank you. Although we are use to use the tools we already have, your list gives a good guide on which ones we may need to update and for what… love the loaded dead-blow hammer; do you know if they have the special edition, the one that comes with Thor and his hammer made of metal of a heart of a dead star? hehe

  • I went to grease ninja website but there are multiple different styles of the product how can I tell which one is for my bike??

  • It used to be called a Yamaha Lubber cable lubber.. but now I see many brands sell it..
    I had never seen the valve for gas cans.. Nor had I ever seen the chain Lube device even though I made my own version of such a ling to lubricate crane cables

  • Good video but correction on 8:04 older Japanese motorcycles didn't use Phillips screws, they used JIS screws which look like Phillips but are not, hence the inaccurate statement "making them extremely hard to remove", that is usually the case when using the wrong tool for the job! =)
    The difference is significant enough to make most people strip the JIS screws if using regular Phillips screwdriver. If you do work on Japanese vehicles, I strongly urge you to get yourself a set of JIS screwdriver. You know you are dealing with a JIS screw if you see a dot on one corner of the X slot where the driver goes.
    Second point is using anti-seize on spark plug threads, this compound will increase the torque input due to decrease friction so even if using a torque wrench, you can very easily over-torque the spark plugs causing them to eventually fail or even worse, break and fall in the engine. So, if you have to use it, make sure to reduce torque rating by about 20%. I personally recommend using di-electric compoung at the end of the spark plugs where the wires connect instead to prevent contamination and corrosion.

  • Great list of tools, a paddock stand or jack is also a must! Walking a bike forward or backwards to oil the chain well…

  • You lost me when you proclaimed you wouldn't use 12 point socket's because "they suck"….. You've clearly never been a professional mechanic or the Son or Grandson of one.

  • Spoke spanner?, Spark plug swivel T socket?, Brake fluid drainer?!. 1/2", 9/16, 5/8, open ring spanners?, Tyer leavers?, Never rattle up on cast aluminum or aluminum for that matter.

  • Really useful video thanks. Glad you weren't full of sponsored products making it hard to depict actual truth from junk. I'm a newbie binge watching through videos and tips and tricks on maintenance and what starter bike to buy and why would be great. Thanks

  • It's not considered a tool but I think it's important to have a good set of tie downs for transportation. I use canyon dancers. Perfect for canyon chasers. ?

  • Good video. One tool I use a lot is a Dewalt electric 18V power screwdriver. It’s great to take off Torx fasteners on my BMWs. Fast and easy to use.

  • Dewalt jump starter the 1200, has everything besides a tank and a radio. Oh an a Moving blanket, probably the best investment for working on things, be comfortable. Dewalt battery drill/impact gun, Invest in a friend who's a mechanic that works for "the love of it" that owns a truck and ramps. Ride safe!

  • My neutral switch needed replacing in 03 Dyna. Shop wanted 2 hrs to go through seat battery box, etc, but I cut down socket to fit over switch then drilled 2 holes in socket for using small bar to tighten ! Had neutral switch replaced in half HR!

  • i agree/use almost every item here. But i can say this, i had that same exact air compressor. Although it's a good one, i have never successfully seated the bead of ANY tire. HD stock to Angel GT and Diablo/Corsas… It has the PSI but just always lost pressure just as the beads were getting ready. I ended up gettting a decent 6 gallon one for 220$ and have since had no issue! that little red one is great for its other uses though, i still use it for air tools alot.

  • Favorite: Harbor Freight's Earthquake XT, usually on sale for $99, the battery lasts for days, saves tennis elbow if you have a lot of wrenching to do. Bendable magnet pickup tool, if you ever drop a bolt into an inlet manifold, it could save you thousands.

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